Berwich Trousers & Chinos | Morello, Retrolong

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Berwich: Italian trousers from Martina Franca since 1975

Berwich is the trouser label of ICOMAN, the family company that Michele and Anna Fumarola started in 1975 in a small garage in Martina Franca, the tailoring town in the Itria valley of Puglia. The couple still owns the business, and the factory still stands in Martina Franca, where every pair is cut, sewn, pressed and checked under one roof, made in Italy from the first cut to the last button. The Berwich name came in 2007, borrowed from a Scottish explorer, with the line "Leaving, Travelling, Discovering" as the brief for each collection. The first model was the Baden, a chino with a riveted front pocket; the Morello that followed has been the heart of the range for years. The signature is small: a button with five holes, sewn in the shape of a W, on the back pocket of every trouser.

Berwich trousers: Morello, Retrolong and pleated wool

The Morello is the model most men know Berwich for: a flat front and a slim leg, between a chino and a tailored trouser. The Morello tailored trousers in navy, black, brown and chalk have the Elax waistband, with elasticated inserts hidden at the sides that give a few centimetres when you sit without changing how the trouser looks; the Morello slim in ivory is the summer version in the same cut. The Morello textured slim trousers in ice grey and dark taupe use a fine textured cloth with more body. For a tailored drape there is the Morello with a single front pleat in wool, in light stone and beige, and in a desert glen check; the pleat gives room through the thigh while the slim hem keeps the Berwich line. The Retrolong is the sartorial Berwich: no belt loops, buckled side adjusters at the hips, an extended waistband tab with a button and a slim tapered leg, in ecru and in a textured white. All of them are in Berwich trousers.

Berwich chinos: slim, garment-dyed and cotton

A Berwich chino is a Morello in cotton. The Morello slim chinos in chalk, greige and black are the year-round pair, with the Elax waistband and belt loops; the Morello garment-dyed chinos in latte and light fango are dyed after sewing, which gives the soft, slightly faded surface of a pair that feels worn in from day one; the Morello cotton chino in beige is the classic. All have a flat front, a slim leg, a zip fly and the W button on the back welt pocket. Wear them with a knit polo from Gran Sasso or Fedeli, or under a Lardini blazer. The six colours are in Berwich chinos. For summer there is also the Spiaggia drawstring short in chalk, in a lightweight slubby fabric with an elasticated waistband and a drawcord with metal tips.

Berwich fabrics: Loro Piana, Vitale Barberis Canonico and Reda

Berwich does not weave; it buys cloth from the Italian mills around Biella and cuts it in Puglia. The three names on the labels are Loro Piana, Vitale Barberis Canonico and Reda. Vitale Barberis Canonico, the family mill in Pratrivero that has woven since 1663, supplies the wool of our pleated and textured Morello trousers, and Berwich has made trousers under a joint Berwich x VBC label; the glen check of the pleated Morello in desert is a Loro Piana cloth; Reda, the third of the Biella mills, weaves the fine wools in the rest of the range. The cottons are Italian stretch twills and garment-dyed cloths.

Berwich size guide: how do Berwich trousers fit?

Berwich uses Italian sizes from 42 to 58 and fits true to size: an IT 46 matches a 30-inch waist (76 cm), an IT 48 a 32-inch waist (81 cm), an IT 50 a 34-inch waist (86 cm), an IT 52 a 36-inch waist (91 cm), an IT 54 a 38-inch waist (97 cm). Measure around your natural waistline, where you normally wear your trousers, and compare it with the Berwich size guide; the general men's trousers size guide has the inseam per size. The Morello is slim through the thigh and calf; if you prefer more room in the leg, choose the pleated wool Morello or the Retrolong. The Elax waistband gives a few centimetres, so do not size up for comfort. The leg is long enough to shorten, and the tailor in our store in Zeist hems it to your measure.

Berwich or Marco Pescarolo?

Two Italian trouser makers, two answers. Marco Pescarolo from Naples is the drawstring trouser, relaxed in the thigh and in wool-cashmere, from around 350 euros. Berwich from Puglia is the flat-front, slim trouser with a hidden stretch waistband, from 185 euros, and the one to wear with a belt or, as the Retrolong, with side adjusters. PT Torino sits between the two; Jacob Cohën is for five-pocket trousers and jeans. All of them are in men's trousers.

How to care for Berwich trousers

The wool and wool-blend trousers, the pleated Morello and the textured Morello, are best dry cleaned; between wears brush them, hang them over a trouser hanger and let them rest a day. The cotton Morello chinos and the Spiaggia shorts can go in the machine at 30 degrees, inside out, line dried and pressed on the reverse; wash garment-dyed cotton separately the first time. Never tumble dry a Berwich. Always follow the care label sewn into the waistband of your pair.

Berwich at Paul Zeist

Paul Zeist has carried Berwich since 2016. It hangs in our men's store on the Slotlaan in Zeist next to Marco Pescarolo, PT Torino and Jacob Cohën; what you see online is in the store as well, and the in-store tailor hems your trousers. Orders placed before 16:00 ship the same working day, with free UPS pick-up in the Netherlands, Belgium and Germany and returns within 14 days across the EU. End-of-season colours move to men's sale.

Frequently asked questions

How do Berwich trousers fit?

True to size in Italian sizing: an IT 48 is a 32-inch waist, an IT 50 a 34-inch waist, an IT 52 a 36-inch waist. The Morello is slim through the leg, the Retrolong slim and tapered, the pleated wool Morello has more room in the thigh. Measure your natural waistline and use the Berwich size guide.

What is the difference between Berwich Morello and Retrolong?

The Morello is a flat-front slim trouser with belt loops, in most versions with the Elax stretch waistband. The Retrolong has no belt loops but buckled side adjusters and an extended waistband tab, with a slim tapered leg. Choose the Morello for chinos and everyday trousers, the Retrolong to wear with a jacket without a belt.

Where are Berwich trousers made?

In Martina Franca in Puglia, Italy, in the Fumarola family's own factory, where the company started in 1975; the Berwich label dates from 2007. The fabrics come from the Italian mills Loro Piana, Vitale Barberis Canonico and Reda.

How do I wash Berwich trousers?

Wool and wool-blend Berwich trousers: dry clean, and air them between wears. Cotton Morello chinos and Spiaggia shorts: machine wash at 30 degrees inside out, line dry, never tumble dry. Follow the care label in your pair.

Is there a Berwich trousers sale?

End-of-season colours of Berwich are reduced in men's sale at Paul Zeist. Core colours such as navy, chalk and beige return every season.

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